Alice Yhoshu
Nagas, like any other traditional society, have a powerhouse of empirically derived traditional knowledge based on their constant and close interactions with nature and its resources. Such knowledge, now popularly called ‘traditional ecological knowledge’, has been orally passed down and practiced from generation to generation.
While the practice of agriculture dominates the Naga life, it is undeniable that Nagas also have a rich traditional textile heritage that is interlinked with nature, vibrant and unique to each tribe.
Nagas used to grow their own cotton, spin their own thread and they applied natural dye to add colour to their handloom.
However, the advent of synthetic fabric and dyes saw these traditions gradually die down and it is now rarely practiced anymore, particularly the natural dyeing practice.
As with other traditional knowledge, the method of making natural dyes which was mainly done by extracting dye from different plants for different hue and shades, was also part of practices handed down over generations.
Though the practice of making natural dyes too is considered to be a traditional ecological knowledge with potential for socio-economic benefits, unfortunately, this quality appears to be overlooked by the modern society. Even the government, who grants assistance to villagers for handloom and related purposes, has yet to initiate any special or dedicated schemes for cultivation of natural dye.
While this knowledge of traditional dyeing method is on the verge of being lost to the society, several women from Akhoya, a village in Mokokchung district, are striving to revive the practice, particularly the indigo dye which was used by the community to add a strong hue to its ethnic attires, by integrating it with other activities for livelihood.
Blue and red are the central colours that dominate the traditional garb of the Ao community. The blue or indigo dye is extracted from the leaves of StrobilanthesFlaccidifolius (‘Osak’), and the red dye is obtained from a mixture of roots, leaves and seeds of different plants. The indigo dye gives a fine colour texture to finished products, which, the locals consider, improves the market value of their local handlooms.
According to Sunlichila, one of the women ofAkhoya village who regularly practices the traditional method of producing indigo coloured dyes for application on traditional Aoshawls, the indigo plant is available throughout the year but those collected during the months of September, October and November give better colour.
The method of indigo dye making involves several processes and a lot of patience, she says. FirstOsak leaves are collected from the forest and they are stored in a room for 3 days to be cut into smaller pieces later. The shredded leaves are pounded into a pastethenkept covered for 20-25 days to ferment, after whichit is mixed with ash and water from a local stream then stored again for 9-10 days to let the indigo melt. When the mixture completely blends with the water, woven shawls are dipped into it for about 2 hours and then dried inthe sun. The final process sometimes needs to be continued for 5-7 days until the colour becomes satisfactory.
Every year, Sunlichila makes upto 20-30 shawls which fetches around Rs.3000-4000 each. She also makes dried indigo dye for Rs.500, thus earning a total amount of aboutRs.15000-16000 annually.
It has been learnt that the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) Nagaland has, in their efforts to promote and encourage traditional practices complementing the environment and sustainable livelihood, shown interest to encourage the villagers of Akhoya to furtherthe cultivation of indigo plant as natural dye as some of them still practices the traditional method of dyeing.
Initiatives were taken up by the UNDP Nagaland during 2011-12 for sustainable management of non-timber forest product as part of conservation efforts, reviving and encouraging the value of traditional ecological good practices for livelihood and conservation aspects, with traditional dye as one of them.
Indigo plant is viewed as a traditional crop and experts observe that it can be promoted under land based activity owing to its quality of fixing nitrogen and nourishing the soil.
The natural indigo is obtained by fermenting the foliage and the processes involved in the practice are eco-friendly and cost effective.
