India has a rich heritage in handlooms, renowned across the world for its fine products since ancient times. It has been a source of livelihood for millions of people and generates employment. However, the All India Handloom Census (2019-20) data showed that the number of weavers in the country had decreased by 19 per cent while the total production increased significantly. The scenario of the handloom sector in Nagaland state is also not very different from the rest of the country. While the Handloom Census 2019-20 showed that the state has 35950 weavers, there is no data about the number of people actually involved in weaving for commercial purposes. The cultural attires of various tribes from the state are more readily available in the market today than a few decades ago, indicating that the output has increased. However, government officials and public leaders have claimed that the number of weavers has declined significantly in the state over the years. There may not be data to prove this claim right but it holds water as weaving is a craft that is practiced by women in Naga society, and education has opened up a world of possibilities and opportunities, empowering the people to pursue and excel in the fields of their interest. This trend is also inevitable with the introduction of new technology that has the capability of producing more in lesser time.
One of the main reasons for the decline in the number of weavers in the country is the entry of big firms into the sector and poor socio-economic status of the weavers. In a small state like Nagaland, even small firms can dislodge the local industry. This is a matter of concern besides the dwindling population of weavers. Fabric produced in loin loom will continue to have its charm and demand but it is labour-intensive with low productivity. The high pricing of such products doesn’t help either. A government official had recently said that people from outside the state have been producing Naga attires and selling at a lower rate. This can’t be stopped unless cultural designs and other aspects are distorted. In the first place, the market for items like sarong, shawl, etc. is mainly concentrated in the Northeast, and if this is captured by big firms, small time weavers will suffer. Leveraging of technology and digital platforms is vital to survive the stiff competition which is inevitable. Data also showed that not a single handloom weaver from Nagaland was enrolled under PMJJY and PMSBY during 2016-17 till September 30, 2019, indicating that people are not aware of such schemes. Weavers from the state need to be sensitised on schemes like National Handloom Development Programme, Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme, Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme, Yarn Supply Scheme, etc. that the government has rolled out to help them purchase raw materials and looms, upgrade skills and infrastructure. Handloom weavers and their products should be promoted and supported amid looming crisis of the sector.
