Food, history and tourism — Diverse tales of discovery in Nagaland

DIMAPUR — Misato, a Japanese food enthusiast, arrived in Nagaland with a mission to dive into the world of fermentation in Naga cuisine. Travelling with friends, she traversed through Dimapur to Kohima, Mokokchung, and Tuensang, looking to explore the region’s unique culinary fermentation traditions. But Nagaland had other plans.

“I thought Nagaland is Nagaland,” Misato said, reflecting on her initial assumptions of homogeneity, but “there’s so much diversity within the region.”

“There are a lot of tribal groups, each with their own distinct fermentation techniques, most of them seasonal in nature. Even the household work is quite seasonal, so it would have been beneficial to learn more about this diversity within the region as well as fermentation and the best seasons to experience it,” she said.

In her journey through the state and its kitchens, Misato also found herself confronting an uncomfortable chapter of shared history that bound her own nation to this small state in India.

A shared history

“The political history or the conflicts in Nagaland,” she mused, “led me to the understanding of the history of whole India…what kind of role that Nagaland has in this huge country.”

Noting the state’s strategic location, she said that Nagaland’s World War II history, particularly the Battle of Kohima, a fierce conflict between Japanese and Allied forces, gave her some perspective on Japan’s role in the war and “what have we been doing in the world.”

“I didn’t know that Japan invaded that part of the world”, she confessed, adding that “there’s a lot to learn from Nagaland, not only about Nagaland, but also the ugly history of India and Japan.”

When asked about how tourism might be positively impacting Nagaland, she said, “To be honest, I think we took too much from the locals.” While acknowledging that travellers inevitably bring ideas and perspectives from their own cultures, she felt a sense of imbalance in the exchange. “People there [are] just so nice and kind, so I feel we were treated more than we treat them.”

A world of surprises

While Misato’s journey was marked by a confrontation with history, Shalini Philip, a restaurateur from Chennai, found herself captivated by the state’s “entirely unique and different culture.”

“Everything about Nagaland came as a surprise! And in the nicest way possible,” she exclaimed.

An example, she said, was the fresh produce market in Dimapur, where she found herself unable to identify almost anything. “The indigenous knowledge of wild foraged and heirloom varieties of greens and vegetables is just amazing”, she shared, adding that her visit to Nagaland transformed her understanding of food.

Like Misato, she also found herself reflecting on the Naga people’s “rich and powerful history,” particularly its role in World War II. This newfound awareness has sparked a desire to have “more conversations especially with older people in places like Khonoma to understand the history and traditions of the Nagas,” she said.

A foundation for peace

Shalini noted that travel offers an understanding of a place and its people and “these are not things one can learn entirely from a book”.

This firsthand experience, she believes, was crucial in breaking down preconceived notions and fostering a sense of connection. “With understanding comes acceptance and also friendships that bring unlikely people together,” she continued.

“This, I guess, is the foundation of peace.”

Addressing the common perception of Nagaland as a conflict-ridden region, Shalini dismissed such fears as based on “half-baked information.”

She emphasised the importance of responsible travel, stating, “When one travels – wherever it may be to – I guess one must apply some common sense as to what is feasible to do and what one should be better equipped or informed to handle.”

She encouraged others to visit the state with an open mind. “I would tell them not to expect a regular holiday but to be prepared for an adventure.”

Bridging the gap

Shalini’s call for responsible travel resonates with Apen Tanujang, a freelance Naga tour guide and itinerary consultant who is passionate about showcasing his culture while ensuring that tourism benefits his community in a sustainable way.

 “Tourists have been coming to Nagaland for years,” he observed, “but we indeed saw a surge in interest after the lockdown when social media started showcasing the beauty, culture, and adventure our state has to offer.”

 Yet, Apen recognises that the shadows of misconception linger as one of the most common concerns that people have before they visit is safety. The legacy of the Naga political movement for independence, coupled with outdated stereotypes about “headhunters,” still casts a long shadow.

On a positive note, he said that these outdated perceptions are slowly changing. “Influencers and content creators have played a huge role in shedding light on the region, sharing their positive experiences and breaking some of these stereotypes,” he added.

Apen recounted an anecdote about a client from San Diego, California, who arrived armed with preconceived notions of a “backward and undeveloped” Nagaland. “As we travelled from village to village, he was deeply moved by the warmth and generosity of the people. Everywhere we went, the villagers welcomed him with open arms, offering him tea, fruits, and freshly picked vegetables from their gardens.”

The Californian contrasted this with his experiences in San Diego, where such open hospitality towards strangers was uncommon. By the end of the tour, the client’s view of Nagaland had transformed: “He no longer saw it as a backward place but as a region rich in culture and community, with incredibly humble and generous people.”

Apen encourages his clients to listen to local stories and perspectives, particularly when visiting historical sites like the Kohima War Cemetery or villages. “This helps them appreciate the history, not just as a political narrative, but as part of the lived experiences of the people here,” he said, noting the potential of tourism in fostering peace and reconciliation.

Sustainable futures

Some of the key areas that he believes the tourism industry can focus on include giving proper recognition and support for people who are making a positive impact in the industry.

Another critical aspect, he asserted, is the need for responsible tourism. “Unfortunately, I’ve seen situations where some locals charge exorbitant rates, especially from national and international tourists”, he shared. He also expressed concern about instances of overcharging tourists, even for simple things like filming a village landscape, stating that this kind of behaviour can damage the reputation of Nagaland and send the wrong message about the Naga community.

“Our ancestors were never driven by greed and I believe it’s essential for us to uphold that legacy,” he emphasised, urging for a shift in focus from short-term gains to building long-term relationships with visitors.

“…We must ensure that the tourism we offer is genuine, sustainable, and reflective of who we are as a people,” he added.

To ensure that tourism remains sustainable, Apen believes that establishing village-level tourism boards would empower local communities to manage tourism in a way that benefits everyone while preserving their culture and identity. He also highlighted the need to diversify the state’s tourism offerings beyond the popular but seasonal Hornbill Festival.

“Poor road conditions have been a significant setback for tourism, especially in the more remote districts”, he noted, adding that improved connectivity would allow travellers to explore the full breadth of Nagaland’s beauty and cultural richness beyond the peak season.