Flaws in central policies hurting entrepreneurs and artisans — Hekani Jakhalu 

DIMAPUR — Entrepreneurs and artisans in Nagaland are facing challenges because of flaws in central government policies, according to Hekani Jakhalu, Advisor to the department of Industries and Commerce.

Speaking at the exhibition and symposium on ‘Living Heritage of Nagaland’, held on Wednesday at Heirloom Naga Centre, Chümoukedima, Jakhalu said that entrepreneurs and artisans from Nagaland do not fit into the box of uniform policies and guidelines framed by the Centre for the entire country.

The event was organised by Contact Base, in collaboration with Heirloom Naga Centre and with support of the German Consulate General Kolkata.

Many artisans are struggling due to limited market access, insufficient training, and lack of financial resources to scale their businesses, she said. Jakhalu added that the state government is struggling to address these issues because of its own lack of resources.

She explained that Nagaland is ‘very dependent’ on central funds, and even for the handicraft and handloom sector, the state government submits relevant proposals. “But there are definitely policy flaws because many a times, these policies and guidelines are set by the central government in uniform for the entire country, and for the northeastern states like Nagaland, we really do not fit into them,” she said.

The advisor felt that Centre should make certain amendments, especially to make sure that NE people ‘are not missing out’. She assured that the vision of the state government is to promote heritage-based entrepreneurship, which can generate sustainable economic growth and offer viable livelihoods to the local artisans.

“Our goal is to transform Nagaland’s rich heritage into a thriving economic engine where traditional knowledge and modern innovation co-exist to benefit our society. Through this creative economy, we can preserve our identity, uplift our people, and present Nagaland to the world in a way that is both authentic and forward-looking,” she added.

Documentation of Naga attire, motif

Managing Director of Nagaland Handloom and Handicrafts Development Corporation (NHHDC), Y Lipongse Thongtsar, informed that they are at the final stage of documenting the different attires, motifs, and ornaments of Naga tribes. He said that they will release a tribe-wise book soon.

Thongtsar expressed belief that the documentation project will reflect the Naga cultural wealth passed down from generation to generation and help preserve it. He shared that the absence of a written manuscript was ‘a drawback’ when it came to documenting.

He shared that Chief Minister Neiphiu Rio had advocated for a detailed study to document the traditional attires, motifs, and ornaments and pursue legal instruments such as Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) and Geographical Indications (GI) that would help protect and preserve the traditional heritage of the Nagas of Nagaland. This was entrusted to the NHHDC.

Also, Thongtsar reflected that preserving Naga heritage and identity comes with challenges in today’s globalised society and asserted that efforts to conserve and interpret cultural artefacts must keep pace with the pressures of modernisation.

He pointed out that instances of cultural appropriation and unethical use of traditional Naga designs in fashion shows and on e-commerce platforms have disregarded their artistic value and profound symbolic meanings.

He clarified that pursuing IPR and GI tagging of Naga traditional attires, motifs, and ornaments is not to prohibit others from engaging with the traditional items but to ensure their proper use and to protect the shared benefits for all.

Further, Thongtsar said that apart from the commonly used attire, there are those that are not so common. “The number of attires as per the ongoing study ranges from a minimum of 2 attires to a tribe to 64 attires to another. Same is the case with the ornaments and accessories. It ranges from 7 to 75 items, which goes on to show the richness of our traditional attire and ornaments,” he added.

The symposium is part of a year-long project, ‘Documenting and Safeguarding the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Nagaland’, funded by the German Consulate General Kolkata under the Cultural Preservation Programme of the German Federal Foreign Office.

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