Backstrap loom: A fading craft for many, lifeline for others

DIMAPUR — Weaving has been my passion since childhood, shared Sentinaro, a weaver from Tuensang district.

This sentiment resonates deeply across Nagaland, particularly among women, for whom weaving on the backstrap loom represents not just a craft but a lifeline connecting them to their heritage and economic empowerment.

Passed down through generations, the art of weaving holds a deep cultural significance in Naga society, symbolising unity, creativity, and a tangible link to their ancestors. However, as modernisation sweeps across the region, these artisans face the challenge of preserving their ancient craft while adapting to evolving market demands.

For many Naga women, weaving continues to be a vital source of income that sustains their families.

“I weave around two to three shawls a month and earn around INR 3,000-6,000 per item depending on the design, with which I am able to sustain my whole family,” revealed Chubalemla, a 50-year-old single mother.

With the income generated from weaving, she said, her son was able to complete his studies.

The creation of a single ‘mekhala’ or shawl requires at least a week or two of dedicated work, depending on the design. For weaving “Idset,” which is a mekhala worn by Chang women, it takes about two weeks, she explained.

It takes practice and patience to ensure that every thread is woven evenly, she added.

Despite the labour-intensive process, these women find deep satisfaction in their craft.

“The intricate patterns and textures that can be created with just a few threads have always fascinated me,” shared Sentinaro, another weaver who specialises in Chang shawls and mekhalas.

However, with time, she observed that people often choose machine-made alternatives over traditionally woven textiles because they are cheaper and faster in terms of production.

While it is up to consumers to decide which product to buy, the changes taking place may eventually cause weavers to abandon the craft as it is already impacting their livelihood, she noted.

Despite these challenges, the art of weaving continues to captivate hearts and minds, bridging generations through shared passion and cultural pride.

Benjongsangla, a young weaver, affirmed this sentiment, sharing, “I have always been drawn to art, and weaving presented a unique medium to explore my creativity. The process of transforming simple threads into beautiful and functional textiles fascinated me.”

A student in her early 20s, she focuses on creating shawls for her fellow students in her village, weaving “Saonei”, which is specifically designed for them.

While some women weave for personal fulfilment, many continue to rely on it as a vital source of income. These artisans earn between INR 8,000 to INR 9,000 per month, selling a variety of woven goods, including traditional mekhalas, shawls, and contemporary-styled bags, and coats, Benjongsangla said.

But as Sentinaro observed, modernisation has begun to cast a shadow of doubt on the continuity of the traditional craft and the indigenous knowledge associated with it.

(The writer is an English major student at Pranab College. She is currently an intern at Eastern Mirror.)