All that glitters: Lessons from jewellery trailblazer on careers in indigenous crafts

It all started in her school hostel. Young Nengneithem Hengna and her friends were filling out a friend’s slam book and discussing what they would become in 10 years. That’s when she wrote that she wanted to be an entrepreneur.

Nengneithem, now the director of Runway Nagaland-Goulu Tribal Jewellery, which, among other activities, sells jewellery and banana fibre products through its e-commerce store (runwayindia.in), says her vision and mission became clearer as she continued working with women artisans and gained a deeper understanding of the business landscape and status in Nagaland.

She graduated from Delhi University with a degree in Political Science and worked as a sales promotion officer with Dabur India in Delhi before returning to Nagaland for good.

In 2011, she founded Runway Nagaland-Goulu Tribal Jewellery, the first formalised “made in Nagaland” jewellery brand. In 2023, the Nagaland government awarded her for integrating indigenous-inspired jewellery into mainstream fashion and promoting tribal art. 

A fellow at the GP Birla Fellowship for Emerging Women Leaders at Ananta-Aspen (2022) and the Vital Voices Global Ambassadors Programme for Emerging Global Women Leaders (2023), Nengneithem also co-founded the Women Entrepreneurs Network Nagaland (WENN). She has received multiple awards from the governments of India, Nagaland, and civil organisations, including the “State Entrepreneur Award” (2023) and “SDG Action Award” (2022).

In this interview with Eastern Mirror, Nengneithem shares insights from her journey of building Runway Nagaland and her efforts to empower artisans, promote indigenous jewellery, and create sustainable initiatives. Her story offers valuable lessons for students aspiring to pursue entrepreneurship or, specifically, social entrepreneurship as a career option.

Can you share your journey in establishing Runway Nagaland Goulu and HM Private Limited and what you actually do?

We started in 2011 with a vision to build a successful business and also preserve and promote our indigenous jewellery through Runway Nagaland Goulu and contribute to improving the social position of our artisans and creating demand for the local handcrafted products outside our state.

Through our experience, we identified a significant gap between makers and buyers and saw the potential to expand the reach of our handmade crafts and accessories into a larger market. Our goal was to create sustainable opportunities for ourselves and fellow artisans. With this vision, we founded HM Private Limited in 2021, onboarding a co-founder to join the journey.

What career opportunities exist in indigenous art and jewellery for young people in Nagaland?

While the Nagaland Indigenous jewellery sector is still new in the mainstream and the market share of indigenous jewellery is relatively small compared to other arts and crafts, young people in Nagaland can explore careers in innovative design, research and product development. 

Opportunities exist in digital marketing, distribution, and promoting indigenous jewellery both locally and globally. Export is another area that is less explored. With increasing interest in sustainable and culturally significant fashion, the demand for authentic indigenous jewellery could expand, opening up new career paths in the industry.

What skills or educational background do you recommend for someone interested in this field?

One can’t be successful just by being passionate about the art; one also needs business acumen and a strong drive in order to sustain the business.

Please elaborate on Runway India Craft Training School as well as the skills one can expect to learn and how these can translate into career opportunities.

Skill development and livelihood have been one of the core focus areas of Runway India since 2011. We have trained over 700 individuals in jewellery making and banana fibre handicrafts, and we plan to gradually expand our training to include other forms of indigenous craft. 

Our vision is to pass these arts on to the next generation, ensuring they gain hands-on experience and the opportunity to become self-reliant. Our training equips individuals with the skills needed to start their own businesses.

Can you explain the potential of banana fibre and its by-products in creating sustainable livelihoods?

Banana fibre has significant potential as a sustainable cash crop and can create livelihoods through a variety of eco-friendly products and by-products. The banana plant, which thrives in lowland and gently sloping terrains, requires minimal maintenance, grows rapidly, and is fully biodegradable, making it an attractive option for sustainable agriculture. Compared to cotton, banana plants are more environmentally friendly, needing less soil input and pest management.

Banana fibre is used to create a wide range of handicrafts, such as bags, clutches, baskets, table mats, vases, planters, and jewellery. The finer fibres are also used in more specialised products like hair extensions. Banana fibre also serves as a sustainable alternative for packaging. We use the fibre as a filler. It provides a biodegradable option for product packaging, and once the product is delivered, customers can reuse the packaging in their gardens, where the fibre enriches the soil. Banana fibre is also used to produce eco-friendly paper for gift wrapping, greeting cards, and even flower bouquets.

Through these innovative uses, banana fibre helps reduce waste and supports the creation of sustainable livelihoods by empowering local communities to engage in eco-friendly crafts and industries.

What are the key challenges of entrepreneurship in Nagaland, and how can they be overcome?

The challenges in Nagaland actually present an opportunity for smart individuals to build a business around them. With technology, the world has become one big platform, and there’s nothing you can’t access. People can start a startup anywhere, living in any part of the world. So, why limit ourselves and get entangled and waste time? Seek right knowledge and right information; they are freely available today, and remember, information is power.

Which achievement are you most proud of, and why?

Despite numerous challenges, sustaining our efforts for 11 years, impacting lives in whatever small possible ways, and inspiring people to respect and recognise artisans while celebrating entrepreneurship is an achievement I’m proud of.

Today, people value our indigenous jewellery, and it has opened up many avenues for businesses. I remember our first exhibition at the Ashoka Hotel in Bangalore, where people found our jewellery intriguing. We didn’t sell a single piece that year. In my second exhibition, I sold out my entire collection. This was the result of the time, effort, and money we invested in a vision we believed in, making space for our indigenous jewellery in the Indian jewellery landscape, and earning the recognition that our art and artisans truly deserve.

Is there scope for students to explore exports or collaborations with international markets?

There is significant potential for growth in this sector. While we’re still in the early stages, there’s great potential. With the right strategic partnerships with the government and stakeholders, one can explore opportunities to expand the reach of indigenous products to global markets.

How do you see the field of handmade art evolving in the next decade?

If more visionary youth with a strong understanding of creativity and business acumen enter this industry, they could disrupt the existing setup and create more opportunities.

How important is creativity in becoming an entrepreneur and how can students cultivate entrepreneurial thinking early in life?

Creativity can be of different forms, such as artistic expression, problem-solving ability, and the creativity to generate new ideas. However, I believe entrepreneurship is about doing things differently. It’s about creating unique value through simple solutions.

With technology at our fingertips, we have endless opportunities to learn and connect. It’s important to embrace curiosity, experiment with ideas, and build resilience through failure. Getting involved in hands-on projects, internships, or startup competitions helps develop practical skills and a growth mindset. 

Programmes from incubators like Edu Centre, YouthNet, and EA focus on youth entrepreneurship, and I encourage starting early. We also offer internships to students, providing them with valuable hands-on experience and opportunities to develop practical skills.

What parting words would you like to share with students as they plan their careers?

Stay true to your passion and purpose. Embrace the journey, with all its challenges and triumphs, and let your dedication to your vision drive you forward. Your unique talents and perseverance can make a profound impact on the world, so never underestimate the power of your contribution.

RAPID INSIGHTS

What’s the one word that best describes your journey as an entrepreneur?

Innovator

What’s your go-to advice for someone facing self-doubt?

Just do it!

How do you unwind after a busy day?

Quiet time alone in my room, where I can relax and recharge.